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Mangrove channel at low light, water the colour of tea

Wanukaka estuary · West Sumba · 9°45′S

The water decides the day

Twelve rooms where a river meets a reef. When the tide is out you walk the flats. When it is in you swim. We do not pretend to control this and we do not apologise for it.

Opened2019 Rooms12 Staff from the village31 of 34 Grid powerNone

An estuary is not a beach and we will not sell it as one.

What this is

Brown water for half the year, carrying silt from the hills behind us. Mangrove on three sides. A reef flat that appears at low tide and disappears at high. Mosquitoes at dusk, which is when the birds come, which is the trade.

The swimming is good for about six hours a day. We publish the tide table for the coming week on this page and at breakfast, and we plan around it rather than against it.

What it is not

There is no white sand, no infinity pool, and no swim-up bar. Four guests have left early since we opened. All four had seen photographs of somewhere else and assumed we were it.

Power is solar with a battery bank. Between 1am and 5am the inverter sleeps, which means no air conditioning in the small hours. The rooms are built to move air without it. Most people sleep better; some do not.

Next seven days

Green = flats walkable · Measured at the river mouth

Twelve rooms, four types

Built from what the river brought down

Reed Room

6 of these · 28 m² · $190

Single volume, woven walls, a bed and a desk. The cheapest way to be here. Shared bathroom block thirty steps away — this is the compromise that keeps the price honest.

Channel Room

4 of these · 44 m² · $310

Facing the main channel with its own bathroom and outdoor shower. You hear the water move twice a day. Light sleepers should take a Reed Room instead.

The Stilt House

1 of these · 78 m² · $560

Out over the water on ironwood posts, reached by a walkway. At spring tide the walkway floods for about forty minutes. We will tell you when.

Reef Cabin

1 of these · 52 m² · $420

The furthest structure, past the mangrove line, closest to the flat. Best for the tide and worst for the walk to dinner. Torches provided.

Mangrove replanted since 2019

14.2 ha

Planted with the Wanukaka village cooperative. About a fifth of it died in the first two years. That is a normal survival rate and we would rather publish it than round it away.

Published annually · 2025 figures

Where a $310 night actually goes

Most eco retreats publish a philosophy. We publish the split. These are real proportions from our own accounts, audited by a firm in Waingapu, and they are not flattering in every line.

Margin is 9%. In 2023 it was negative. We are not a charity and we are not a fortune.

Stay

Two nights minimum, and we mean it

The road in takes ninety minutes from Tambolaka and the last eleven kilometres are not sealed. A single night is not worth the drive for you or the fuel for us.

Rates include all meals, because there is nowhere else to eat. They do not include the transfer, which is $65 each way for the vehicle, not per person.

We hold a room for 48 hours without payment. Cancel up to 14 days out for nothing; inside that we keep one night.

Room, 3 nights$930
Meals, all included$0
Transfer$130
Village levy, $4 per guest per night$24
Total$1,084

Nothing is charged here. We reply within a day, usually two hours, and we will tell you if the tide is wrong for what you want.

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